For several years, I have practiced Buddhism in the Zen tradition of Vietnamese monk Thích Nhât Hanh. This practice has opened my heart and changed my life. In part, my trip to Viet Nam is an exploration of the roots of my Zen practice.

It also has something ineffable to do with the war-the one we call the Viet Nam War and they call the American War. I did not "serve" in the war, but like most Americans, I was deeply affected by it. As a young teacher, I was keenly aware in the 1960s of the ruse being pulled off by a government whose belligerence I am still trying to fathom. I turned in my draft card, demonstrated against the war, and eventually dropped out to avoid paying taxes for it.

A couple years ago, I met a former Marine lieutenant whose life turned around in Viet Nam when mortar fire nearly killed him 35 years ago. As executive director of the East Meets West Foundation, Mark Stewart now raises millions of dollars a year to help the Vietnamese rebuild their country. Each year, he meets with his overseas staff, sometimes taking along sponsors to tour EMW projects. I jumped at the chance to join his latest trip.

I marvel at the drivers' skill in negotiating through seas of traffic. Everyone owns a motorbike or bicycle. Each day as we head out to visit the schools, clinics and water systems built by EMW, I claim the front seat in the van for the best vantage point on this kaleidoscope of choreographed chaos. Unlike at home, where they usually communicate anger and impatience, here horns honk to signal that faster moving vehicles are coming through-continuously!